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Darwin is still famed for its toothy reptilian residents, but as AYO musicians discovered on their recent concert tour, there’s far more to this Top End city than crocodiles.

Much has changed since AYO visited Darwin on its first national tour in the early 90s. Fashion may have come full circle (hello scrunchies and baggy jeans) but much like Darwin’s famed sunsets, the city’s vibrant spirit, generosity and warm welcome have never gone out of style.

Musicians on the 1990 Playing for Australia tour would remember Darwin as a remote, tropical town. Today, its population has more than doubled and the city has evolved into a cosmopolitan tropical hub with a vibrant waterfront, multicultural food scene – where else can you find a local market serving laksa for breakfast? –  and thriving arts and cultural life, while retaining its laid-back Top End character.

The 61 musicians of the Australian Youth Orchestra, accompanied by Dutch conductor Antony Hermus, AYO alumna and cellist Charlotte Miles and a team of AYO staff were visiting Darwin – many of them for the first time – for the Brave New Worlds concert at AANT Centre on Friday 17 July.  

And what a welcome they received. From His Honour, the Honourable David Connolly, Administrator of the Northern Territory and NT Minister Robyn Cahill OAM, to Darwin Symphony Orchestra Artistic Director Richard Mills AO and AYO alumna and Darwin music teacher Rebecca Harris, the message was clear: don’t leave it another 30 years before returning to the Top End.

Darwin-bound!

After wrapping up rehearsals at Sydney Conservatorium of Music, the AYO group – plus five double basses and nine cellos – boarded a red-eye flight to Darwin via Brisbane, landing in the early hours of Thursday morning. Interesting note: Unlike most other city airports, Darwin Airport has no nighttime curfew, so planes can land at any time.

In 1990, AYO musicians stayed in the Darwin Army barracks, where they experienced their first encounters with mess hall meals and military sleeping quarters. In 2026, participants were billeted in ensuite twin rooms at Darwin’s Novotel and Marriott hotels – a sign that the city’s accommodation options have evolved just as dramatically as the city itself.

After a 2am check-in, the 3pm tutti rehearsal call was a welcome relief for the musicians. There was no sleep in for the AYO team however, which was busy moving instruments, bumping into the venue, meeting ABC technicians and briefing the official concert photographer (French horn player and AYO alumni) Jethro Llewellyn in preparation for the Beethoven rehearsal that afternoon.

Charlotte Miles goes back to school

While Maestro Hermus and the orchestra tested the acoustics of AANT’s Playhouse Theatre with Beethoven’s mighty Eroica, Charlotte Miles dropped in to visit strings students at local Haileybury Rendall School, following an invitation from AYO alumna and the school’s strings and cello tutor, Rebecca Harris. Rebecca toured with the Australian Youth Orchestra during its previous visit to Darwin more than 30 years ago and has vivid memories of performing with AYO in the Territory.

Charlotte joined the cello section during rehearsal, where she played alongside students, offered feedback and shared practical advice on ensemble playing and musicianship. Sharing stories from her own musical journey, Charlotte introduced students to her beloved cello ‘JoJo’, spoke about how she first fell in love with the cello, the challenges and rewards of pursuing a career in music, and valuable lessons she has learnt along the way.

After braving Darwin’s notorious ‘rush hour’ (a phenomenon largely driven by the 4.21pm public service knock-off, which is explained by the delightful Uber driver) Charlotte and the AYO marketing team made it back to the AANT Centre in time for afternoon rehearsals.

A special visit from His Honour, the Honourable David Connolly, Administrator of the Northern Territory

The afternoon rehearsal at AANT Centre offered a rare behind-the-scenes glimpse into life as a national orchestra for 10 young musicians from Darwin Symphony Orchestra’s Young Artists program. Representing a range of instruments including bassoon, trumpet, percussion, harp, violin and cello, the students joined AYO on stage for a rehearsal of Beethoven’s Eroica, watching first-hand as Maestro Antony Hermus shaped one of the orchestral repertoire’s most celebrated works.

The experience continued with an intimate Q&A session with Hermus and AYO CEO Kimbali Harding, before ending the day the best way musicians know how – sharing stories, advice and dinner together.

On Friday, with one more final General Rehearsal to go before the evening’s concert, energy was high as the musicians took to the stage for a 10am call – with a special visit from His Honour, the Honourable David Connolly, Administrator of the Northern Territory and Ms Sue Brosnan OLY, accompanied by AANT CEO John Glenn.

Following the visit, His Honour described AYO’s return to Darwin as “an inspiring opportunity for Territorians to experience the next generation of exceptional musical talent right here in Darwin”.

‘An inspiring opportunity for Territorians to experience the next generation of exceptional musical talent right here in Darwin.

His Honour the Honorable David Connolly, Administrator of the Northern Territory

In a post on social media, he said the visit had provided “a rare opportunity to meet the talented young musicians and guest artists bringing this remarkable performance to the Territory”.

“It was especially exciting to welcome the Australian Youth Orchestra back to Darwin for the first time in more than 30 years, showcasing some of Australia’s most outstanding emerging classical musicians at the beginning of what promises to be distinguished international careers.”

Richard Mills AO introduces ‘Olympians of music’

With the Darwin audience milling into the AANT Centre’s alfresco balcony bar from 6pm for welcome pre-concert refreshments after the 30+ degree temperatures of the day, Darwin Symphony Orchestra Artistic Director, celebrated composer, conductor and AYO NT ‘ambassador’ Richard Mills AO was joined in the packed atrium gallery by Charlotte Miles and AYO principal clarinet Angus Hall for an insightful pre-concert talk.

As the AYO musicians prepared backstage, Charlotte (dressed in a blue Ikuntji suit) and Angus chatted to Richard about the Brave New Worlds program, the rehearsals and the impact AYO has had on their musical journeys.

Speaking about the importance of bringing the orchestra back to Darwin, Richard highlighted AYO’s unique contribution to Australia’s musical and cultural landscape.

These young people are our Olympians in music. They are absolutely at the top of their game

Richard Mills AO, Darwin Symphony Orchestra Artistic Director

“These young people are our Olympians in music. They are absolutely at the top of their game,” Richard told the packed room. “This organisation has fostered the soul of orchestral playing in this country for many years. And the friendships formed in this group last an absolute lifetime. It is a very important organisation for Australian music and for our national identity and national conversation and we should all be immensely proud of it.” A sentiment that was clearly shared by everyone in the room.

Concert time!

With one final pep talk from Maestro Antony Hermus ringing in their ears, the orchestra took to the stage ready to make history with AYO’s first Darwin performance in more than three decades.

Before the first note the Hon Robyn Cahill OAM, Minister for Trade, Business and Asian Relations, Legislative Assembly of Northern Territory introduced the AYO to the AANT audience and remarked on the striking outfits worn by the flagship orchestra, featuring fabric designed by Northern Territory-based Ikuntji Artists – the first art centre established for women of the Western Desert Art Movement.

In welcoming the orchestra back to the Top End, she also thanked AYO for representing the NT artists on the global stage: “They are also ambassadors for Ikuntji artists, who have designed all of those beautiful jackets and dresses that they are wearing. So they take a piece of the territory with them wherever they go, which is quite extraordinary, and I would like to thank them for that.”

They take a piece of the territory with them wherever they go, which is quite extraordinary, and I would like to thank them for that.

Hon Robyn Cahill OAM

From the haunting whispers created by the strings’ rosin-less bows in Brett Dean’s Testament to Charlotte Miles’ mesmerising and physically demanding interpretation of Shostakovich’s Cello Concerto No. 1, the evening showcased the extraordinary versatility, commitment and artistry of some of Australia’s finest young musicians.

Miles’ electrifying performance drew an immediate and enthusiastic response from the audience. One concertgoer described her as “passionate, strong and full of confidence, totally enthralling the audience”, while another called her performance “absolutely astounding”.

“You could hear a pin drop and the cadenzas were out of this world,” they said.

Others commented on her magnetic stage presence, noting that she was “so engaging as a musician” and that she “held your attention the whole time”.

After interval, the orchestra returned to the stage for Beethoven’s monumental Symphony No. 3 ‘Eroica’, delivering a performance full of conviction, energy and emotional intensity. Under Hermus’ direction, the musicians embraced the symphony’s heroic scale and drama, bringing an infectious sense of purpose and joy to the work.

Just remember what a gift you were to Darwin, and how grateful we are for that.

Audience member, Darwin concert

Backstage afterwards, the conductor was unequivocal in his praise. “Amazing, amazing, amazing,” said Hermus. “They played their heart out in the Eroica.”

Judging by the audience response, Darwin agreed. Audience member KarlJen Riester summed up the energy in the room: “Wow!! So much energy. Absolutely wonderful. Thank you.”

Althea Bannister said she “loved, loved, loved the energy and joy” the orchestra brought to Darwin, adding that Beethoven’s Eroica was “so fun to listen to that I was grinning from ear to ear”.

Lizzy Mellick described the concert as a “glorious, exuberant, outstanding performance”, writing: “What a treat it was to be in the audience. If any of you ever lose heart, and feel like giving up, just remember what a gift you were to Darwin, and how grateful we are for that.”

Perhaps Peter Waggitt captured the mood of the evening best: “Superb performance. Certainly don’t wait another thirty years.”

Laksa breakfast then on to the airport

According to Darwin local, AYO alumnus and photographer Jethro Llewellyn, the only breakfast to have in Darwin on a Saturday morning is the laksa at Parap Markets. Armed with this hot tip, Charlotte, Maestro Hermus (a laksa novice) and AYO’s Marketing and Communications Manager Geraldine Cardozo made a detour to the markets to sample the famed 8am breakfast before heading to the airport for the flight back to Sydney. Based in Germany, where finding good Asian food can be a challenge, Charlotte declared the nourishing, spicy broth the perfect post-concert recovery meal.

Of course, no AYO tour would be complete without an impromptu chamber performance at the departure gate, so a handful of AYO string players duly obliged – with Charlotte happily joining in.

[Our young musicians] were blown away by the joy and discovery of new music.

Audience member

With hearts and bellies full, it was time to board. But while the orchestra may have left Darwin behind, the warmth of the welcome lingered. Audience members spoke of being “blown away by the joy and discovery of new music”, while local teachers thanked the musicians for inspiring the next generation of young artists.

Judging by the response, Darwin won’t be forgetting AYO any time soon – and the feeling is almost certainly mutual.